Now let me clarify, this was was the analysis of costume design, not the actual designing and sewing (unfortunately, I don't really have the skills for that), and it was everything I'd ever wanted. Finally, finally I could put to words what these clothes always made me feel, and it was a new layer to the films I've seen and would see in the future.
The thing with costume design it that it really isn't just fashion for movies. Costume designers have some of the most unappreciated work in the business. They have to research whatever period the film is set in, have a complete understanding of the character they're designing for, and design hundreds of costumes, sometimes with minute differences, all while keeping not just the director's vision in mind, but the person who will be wearing the clothes, how it will look against the set design, and more. It's a thankless job, but I've always been enamored of the results. Just so you understand how complex costume design is, I'll give you the example my professor gave us on the first day of class: Marlon Brando's white t-shirt in A Streetcar Named Desire.
This shirt was painstakingly constructed down to the tiniest details to evoke everything you needed to know about the character, like the carefully placed stains, and the sleeves, hems, and collars measured specifically to show off Marlon Brando's body in the right way. But I'm not here to give you a lecture on costume design. Instead, I just want to do another Top 5! So without further ado, (in no particular order) my top five favorite costume designs in film.
- Gone With the Wind, Walter Plunkett. Now, my favorite item of clothing in this film is the first real dress we see Scarlett O'Hara in: the captivating green and white masterpiece with the velvet accents. I love this dress for so many reasons, and I've probably been obsessed with it since I was about five years old. It gives us everything we need to know about Scarlett right off the bat. It's incredibly fussy, and so is she. With a full skirt and those voluminous lacy sleeves, we see Scarlett's money and power, but also her vanity, and let's be clear: Scarlett is incredibly vain. She's also got several accessories- her broad hat with the absurdly long velvet ribbon, tied in a huge bow underneath her chin (which showcases her immaturity), and her lace shawl. We get the impression of purity from all the white, but the green tells us she has growing up to do. More than that, it's how she carries herself in this dress. She knows exactly how to manipulate the world around her to get what she wants- though this is the last time she'll really be able to do so. Scarlett's dresses in this film take us through the emotional journey of her character: they showcase her strength, vulnerability, her faults, but also her attributes: her resolve and resourcefulness. And to this day, my favorite color is still the exact shade of forest green that makes up the velvet ribbon on the hat.
- A Knight's Tale, Caroline Harris. A Knight's Tale is famous for its anachronistic elements, namely, the music. One of my favorite films of all time (seriously, if you put it on right now I could quote along with the entire thing and I am so not ashamed of it), it's the story about a member of the peasantry (played by heartthrob Heath Ledger) who dreams of becoming a knight in the 1370s. Now, this film famously uses classic rocks songs instead what would be period-appropriate, but the clothing is somewhat anachronistic as well. Again, I'm talking about dresses. Shannyn Sossamon (who I also adore in Wristcutters, another fantastic film) is a noble lady that Heath Ledger's character falls in love with, and her clothes are so striking and memorable I had to pick a random outfit to use as my picture because I just couldn't pick a favorite. She's a fabulous and fierce modern woman (and feminist!), which is why it is only her clothes that contain obviously anachronistic elements. Her hair, for a start. She's rarely seen without hair dye of some sort (my favorite being the purple she rocks in several difference scenes), face paint (see the bold gold eyeshadow above), and outright strange hats (the white star-shaped hat she wears in her first appearance). But there's something so right about the clothes she wears. In her first scene, she's headed to church, which accounts for the all-white, skin-covering robe and hat, no matter how weird that hat might look (and trust me, it's so weird). But two of my favorite are probably the black-and-white linen dress and hat she wears to watch her first joust, and the sheer black number she wears at a later competition. The linen (or seersucker?) dress and hat she wears may not be exactly right for the 14th century, but it looks exactly like what a high society lady might wear at a polo match today, which is pretty much the equivalent to her watching a joust, and the sheer black number is something I would proudly hang in my closet today.
- Inception, Jeffrey Kurland. Okay, we're taking a break from the female-driven period pieces to talk about something lot more modern. In my opinion, contemporary films do not get enough credit in the costume design department. Men's suits are something of a pet hobby of mine. They are lessons in subtlety, elegance, and beauty, and Jeffrey Kurland's costumes (which consist of quite a few suits) for Inception are exquisite. My favorite one of all however is the one pictured above. Worn by Saito in the first (well, technically second) dream sequence of the movie, it's an innovative and beautiful way to challenge conventions and introduce the character of Saito. See, it isn't just a suit. It's a blend of a modern Western suit, and the traditional Japanese kimono. It exudes wealth and perfectly encapsulates how Saito's character toes the boundary between tradition (the honor so often mentioned in Inception) and the modernity and almost fantastical elements of the dream world. The complex folds of the kimono, the sharp lines of the suit, I'm honestly salivating just looking at it. A lot of the time people tend to think of costume design as only period wear or dresses for women. But Jeffrey Kurland's work for Inception is some of the most nuanced and powerful work I have ever seen. Here's my advice to you: put on Inception and then hit the mute button. Just watch for the suits, because really, that's enough.
- Moulin Rouge, Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie. Oops, back to the period pieces. Moulin Rouge is one of the most extravagant films I have ever seen, and the costumes are no exception. Set at a Parisian burlesque club at the turn on the twentieth century, Moulin Rouge dazzles with decadent costumes. Modest is definitely not in female protagonist Satine's vocabulary. Even her "simplest" dress, a curve-hugging red number, screams at the audience through the camera. One of my personal favorite moments is the musical they put on at the end of the movie, Spectacular! Spectacular! The costumes are insane, because first of all, it's a musical about India set in a musical about late 19th century France, so these costumes are made through three different lenses, and they have to reflect that. Add on the sheer number of costumes that had to be made for the entire cast in that scene, and wow, I'm exhausted just thinking about it. And they're beautiful. Watching the group numbers in Moulin Rouge is an experience all on it's own, and there's something magical about how the costumes not only respond to the choreography, but also work in tandem with each other. I personally would like to own every single headdress that Nicole Kidman wears. My project for next time I watch? Compare Satine's costume design to Nini's, who is easily her foil in the movie.
- Clueless, Mona May. Okay, so I said no particular order, but I think I saved my favorite for last. Clueless is probably my favorite movie in the entire world, and the costume design is no exception. For a film that places so much emphasis on clothing, it does not disappoint. Now, one thing I learned in my costume design class is that if you took every costume a character wears throughout a movie and put them side-by-side, it should tell you that character's journey through the film. Now, Clueless doesn't do that. But that doesn't make the costume design any less amazing. In Cher's 1990s, Beverly Hills world, clothes are a way of life. They define who you are, as she tries to tell a mugger who's holding a gun to her head. I mean, it was an Alaïa. That's like, a totally important designer. So Cher and her cohorts dress to impress, whether it's the famous yellow plaid outfit pictured above, her simple white Calvin Klein dress (with the sheer shirt that's supposed to cover it up), or Dionne's party outfit, complete with matching ribbon braided into her hair. Thanks to Cher, I know that a white collarless shirt from Fred Siegel can help you pass your driving test, driving is impossible in platforms, and never date someone who dresses better than you. Otherwise what would you bring to the relationship? Thanks for the fashion advice, Cher. (cue thumbs-up emoji)





















